Buenos Aires: A City Worth Repeating
Published March 22, 2024
Photography by Steph Kesler
Our AirBnB host told us the best thing to do in Buenos Aires is nothing—and after a week in the undeniably safe and beautiful city, I couldn’t agree more.
If I could describe the destination in one word, it would be electric. Buenos Aires boasts an undeniable allure as the sun bounces off colourful art around every corner. But it’s the way those same streets come alive at night, as patrons relish in the summer heat under the canopied streets, that has my heart.
Whether you’re working in a coffee shop, wandering the various neighbourhoods or merely people-watching on a park bench, Buenos Aires captivates through its ability to draw you in and make you feel at home.
Art at the heart
There are many things that make a city great, but when I think back on my time in Buenos Aires, it’s the street art that stands out.
There’s something special about being able to spend an entire day aimlessly roaming while being completely enthralled the entire time.
The neighbourhoods of Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood are the perfect home bases. Each street has its own personality, and the restaurants, shops and watering holes are just as exciting as the walks that take you door to door.
The Palermos may sleep all day and party all night, but whether you’re a night owl or a morning bird, you’ll feel welcomed by the friendly locals and endless artistic expression.
Architecture galore
The city has several neighbourhoods, each with its own characteristics and charm. If the Palermos are the hipsters of Buenos Aires, then Recoleta, Retiro and San Telmo are the sophisticated aristocrats.
In just one day, you’re able to hit several iconic landmarks while discovering a few hidden gems along the way. Some of my favourite architectural masterpieces include El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop and the Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes. The best part? They’re free.
When travelling, you can sometimes feel restricted to one neighbourhood due to high transportation costs. However, hopping from one site to the next is very easy in Buenos Aires. Public transit isn’t an issue and Ubers are insanely cheap.
Fine dining on a fair budget
One of the best things about Buenos Aires, and Argentina as a whole, is how incredibly affordable it is for Canadians.
When we visited in January 2024, we were able to exchange one American dollar for roughly 1,000 Argentine pesos, which meant eating out every night was a no brainer—especially when the food is so diverse and delicious.
We enjoyed everything from llama empanadas and vegan cuisine to Michelin Star prime rib with all the fixin’s, all of which were very affordable and an absolute steal in comparison to Canada.
A few highlights from our culinary crawl:
Rebelión is the perfect stop for a light lunch and refreshing beverages. After a long morning shopping, the wraps, salads and cocktails hit the spot.
Dandy has many locations across Buenos Aires, but the one we went to was in the heart of Santa Fe. Spend the afternoon working remotely while enjoying ginger-mint lemonade, freshly made pasta and hearty bowls.
Don Julio is the number one place visitors recommend. The Michelin Star restaurant always has a queue around the corner, and despite being second in line, our reservation was made for 11:45 p.m. Don Julio takes service very seriously and everything from the champagne while you wait to the attention to detail at the table is top-notch.
Gran Bar Danzon is a swanky establishment that stands out for its delicious tapas style plates and sushi. The moody décor makes it the perfect spot for after work drinks and bites.
Sommelier en Bicicleta is a lovely shop for a quick wine tasting or glass of vino. The atmosphere is casual and the selection varied. The Torrentes regional white wine shouldn’t be missed; we found ourselves ordering it everywhere we went.
A home-away-from-home for Canadians
Buenos Aires quickly became my favourite major city, largely because I found it the most livable.
I felt safe, regardless of the time of day. The weather was a dream. The people were kind and accommodating, especially when it came to the language barrier. The vibes were chic yet edgy. The food was affordable and delicious. And most importantly, the time zone was perfect for adhering to a Toronto work schedule.
I’m not one to make a habit of repeat visits, but now that I’ve had a taste of this wonderful city, it certainly has me craving more.
The city itself has so many pockets worthy of multiple days of exploration. With its proximity to Uruguay and other popular Argentine cities like Tilcara, Mendoza, Cafayate, Bariloche and southern Patagonia, it’s the ultimate hub for South American adventures.
It may be a 15 hour flight from Toronto, but Buenos Aires is worth going the distance.
Steph Kesler
At 18, Steph got her first real taste of international travel as a Disney on Ice skater. For two and half years, she toured the world playing every character under the sun while taking in the sights, tastes, sounds and smells of the weekly destinations she’d call home.
After hanging up her skates, she graduated from the Masters of Journalism and Communication program at Western. Steph now works with travel and consumer clients as a Director at Media Profile, fully embracing the company’s Work Away Benefit to explore as many countries as possible.
She’s always been an energetic and passionate storyteller—only now, her adventures go beyond the fairytales carved into the ice.