Published January 19th, 2025

Photography by Robin and Arlene Karpan

Grand Manan Island is only 1.5 hours by ferry from mainland New Brunswick but is a world away. Life seems more relaxed with no crowds. Its 2,600 or so residents are spread across the island amid stretches of undisturbed nature. Non-stop photo ops abound -- dramatic 100-metre cliffs, picture-perfect fishing villages and lighthouses, beaches, rugged coastlines, and wildlife reserves. Not to mention fabulous seafood. But surprisingly, the product from the sea that fascinated us most was not what we were expecting.

At the western end of the Bay of Fundy, Grand Manan is the largest of the Fundy Isles, roughly 24 kilometres long and 10 kilometres wide. However, don’t let its compact size fool you. We found that in a few days, it’s only possible to take in some of the many cool things to see and do.

Swallowtail Lighthouse

Not only is the Swallowtail Lighthouse the most iconic symbol of Grand Manan, it’s the first thing we see as the ferry rounds the point near the entrance to North Head Harbour. Dating to 1860, it still retains its original wooden tower, thanks to significant restorations over many years. The setting is simply drop-dead gorgeous. From the parking area, we take a footbridge across a small canyon to the rocky headland with sweeping views, and an area where interpretive panels and displays tell the larger story of this historic site.

A place that’s for the birds

Situated along the Atlantic Flyway, and with incredible biodiversity, Grand Manan has been considered a top birding destination since naturalist John James Audubon visited in 1833. Over 360 species have been identified. Some top spots include Castalia Marsh, especially noted for shorebirds, and The Anchorage Provincial Park with its mix of beach, rugged coastline, campground, and trails.

For the ultimate wildlife viewing, take a trip with Sea Watch Tours to Machias Seal Island, about 1.5 hours away by boat. It’s the only place in North America where we can land on a puffin colony and watch these fascinating birds at close quarters from a photography blind. While puffins steal the show, we also enjoy a ring-side seat watching razorbills, Arctic terns, murres, seals and more. The bird sanctuary only allows 15 people per day, so tours must be booked well in advance.

Jenn’s Jeep Tours

Jenn’s Jeep Tours provides the ideal introduction to the island. Owner and operator Jennifer O’Neal knows every corner of the island and tailors her trips to guests’ interests, occasionally taking her Jeep off-road. We not only hit some well-known highlights, but also a sample of her favourite sections of the island’s more than 100 kilometres of trails, places to eat that are popular with locals, and a beach known for its magnetic sand.

Taste the world’s best dulse

The highlight came when Jenn headed to Dark Harbour, the only place on the island’s wild west coast accessible by road. Here we were introduced to the intriguing world of dulse. This nutrient-rich seaweed grows in various places, but Dark Harbour dulse is considered the best in the world. Soaring cliffs shade the shoreline, protecting the dulse from getting “cooked” with too much sun.

Jenn introduced us to two “dulsers”, Vince and Kyle, lobster fishermen who turn to dulse harvesting in the summer off-season. They offered to take us out in their slick new dory with a kevlar lining on the bottom to slide over rocks. Dulse must be harvested at low tide, which in the Bay of Fundy means dealing with shallow water and exposed rocks on the shoreline.

Only a few minutes from Dark Harbour, we pull onto the boulder-strewn shore in thick fog, and Vince and Kyle get out onto the wet slimy rocks – looking like a twisted ankle just waiting to happen. But they’re experienced, deftly hopping between rocks in their rubber boots while pulling the special seaweed from the stones to fill their baskets. Since this doesn’t damage the roots, the dulse will grow back to be harvested again and again.

Back on shore, we followed them as they took the dulse to Green Sea Harvest where they spread it on flat rocks covered with netting to dry, then sell to owner Wayne Green. Dry dulse is crunchy but still a bit chewy, tasting mildly salty with a slightly smoky flavour. Everyone here seems to snack on it almost non-stop.

Dark Harbour dulse is shipped around the world, but Wayne keeps a few bags to sell at his shack at the drying facility. If you fancy some dulse and Wayne isn’t around, no problem. Help yourself to a bag and put the money in the box. Wayne even leaves extra change in the box in case you need it.

Get in touch with Grand Manan’s history

The tiny community of Seal Cove has some of the best-preserved remnants of the past. In the late 1800s and early 1900s Grand Manan was the largest supplier of smoked herring in the world. Built on stilts to accommodate the Bay of Fundy’s famous high tides, several smoke sheds from that era remain, now designated as a National Historic Site. Some old buildings have been repurposed for other uses, while others stand as ghosts from the past.

For a more comprehensive island history, we head to the Grand Manan Museum, among the best small-town museums anywhere. We learn how the island has long depended on the sea with exhibits on the sardine and herring industry and the colourful world of lobster trap buoys. Not surprisingly, dulse features prominently, including a display on the Dark Harbour Hermits – two brothers in the early 1900s who were dulse harvesters but who also became acclaimed poets and artists.

Where to stay

No cookie-cutter hotel chains here. Accommodation on Grand Manan leans more toward small inns, cottages, bed & breakfasts, and campgrounds, each one distinctive. We stayed at one of the more unusual places, Castalia Marsh Retreat. Covering seven acres next to the wildlife-rich marsh, it was created by James Bates, a former sea captain with a flair for the unconventional. To be eco-friendly, James uses repurposed wood and furnishings, and installed composting toilets to minimize environmental impact. All cabins are unique, such as the Bird House with a loft overlooking the marsh, a yurt, a vintage trailer, or our cabin called Fern Alley with an upper deck looking over the forest and marsh. Each cabin has a full kitchen and sits by itself in the forest. You almost feel alone in nature.

One evening James and his crew invited guests to the central gathering area for a few snacks, which turned out to be more like a full meal. Almost all of the other guests had stayed here before and many come back every year. It was easy to see why this friendly place has such a loyal following.

Where to eat

Like accommodation, eateries are small, casual, and locally run. Sunrise Seafoods in Woodwards Cove is practically an institution, extremely popular with locals and visitors alike. A fish & chips type of place, its wider offering includes clams, scallops, and lobster rolls. They can also do most dishes gluten-free. It’s take-out but many customers enjoy the fare at picnic tables in front. Go slightly outside regular mealtimes to avoid the lineups, and keep in mind that it’s cash only.

Another spot we enjoyed was The Harbour Grille in Grand Harbour, a place that Jenn introduced us to, about halfway along the main highway running the length of the island. While the menu is extensive, the fish chowder and other seafood dishes stand out. It has a reputation for providing good value so it always seems to be busy.

Getting to Grand Manan

The ferry leaves the mainland from Blacks Harbour, about 70 kilometres west of Saint John. Coastal Transport has seven daily sailings in summer (four at other times). While the vehicle ferry is quite large, reservations are recommended in the busier summer season.

Final thoughts

Our main advice for first-time visitors is to allow enough time on the island, at least 2 - 3 days and preferably more. There’s a lot to see and do and you may have to work around foggy weather. We found this out when we made several trips to Southwest Head until we finally had clear enough weather to photograph the dramatic cliffs on our last morning.

Above all, Grand Manan, New Brunswick, isn’t just about seeing specific sites. Take time to get in touch with island life, its welcoming people, and hidden corners. Find offbeat places like “Mud Patch Lane”, which is just down the road from “No Man’s Lane”. It’s a special place you won’t want to leave soon.

Discovering New Brunswick’s Captivating Grand Manan Island

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