Published November 30th, 2023

Photography by Maureen Littlejohn

The last time I was in Memphis was in 1987. I was on a bus tour from Toronto and my fellow travellers and I were paying homage to Elvis Presley, 10 years after his death. Our main focus was visiting Graceland, plus all the King’s hotspots in and around the city.
It was great, but there’s a lot more going on these days.

On a return trip in autumn of 2023, I explored new outdoor options, sampled dishes at outstanding restaurants, strolled Beale Street, and connected with the city’s ties to the civil rights movement. And yes, I paid my respects to the King once more at Graceland.

Here are some must-see and must-do experiences in Memphis, Tennessee.

Explore New Outdoor Options

The first big change to capture my attention was the waterfront. Views of the mighty Mississippi can now be enjoyed at Tom Lee Park , at the foot of Beale Street. Opened In September 2023, the park was a $61 million project built atop an old U.S. Army Corps of Engineers dike wall.

A family-friendly 30-acre stretch of greenery, the park features a gorgeous playground for kids, a 15,000-square-foot architectural canopy covering a basketball court, plus space for yoga, concerts, and fitness classes. Hammocks slung throughout the park swung with resting occupants and walking the paved paths I noticed they were lined with indigenous trees and plants.

Who was Tom Lee? A plaque and sculpture in the park told his story. A Black river worker who couldn’t swim, Lee saved 32 passengers from a capsized steamer on the Mississippi in 1925. With unstinting bravery, he pulled flailing people into his wooden skiff, deposited them on land, and went back for more. The town lauded him as a hero and ensured he was comfortable for the rest of his life.

Paddle the Mississippi

The Mississippi River has inspired so many tales of adventure, that I had to get out and experience it for myself. Mississippi River Expeditions offered a three-hour morning tour and I signed on. The Voyageur Canoe we set out in carried eight passengers, plus our guide, company owner Matthew Burdine. Originally from Memphis, Burdine told me he gained his paddling expertise white water rafting in Colorado.

The river was running fast that morning and our arms were burning as we paddled in unison. But we made it safely to sandy Loosahatchie Island, close to the Arkansas side of the river. Burdine had brought a spread of fruit, cheese, and juice and we refuelled before paddling back under the watchful eye of the Bass Pro Pyramid, a former arena-turned-sports-mega-store-and-hotel.

Bike the Greenline

I went a little east of the city to pedal the trails of Shelby Farms Park, part of the rail-to-trail Shelby Farms Greenline. Populated by walkers, cyclists, and kayakers, the park offered bike rentals, horseback riding, playgrounds, and an 80-acre lake. Peering through a fence in one corner of the park, I caught glimpses of a herd of bison.

Goin’ to Graceland

You can’t go to Memphis and not see Graceland, home of Elvis Presley. The main house was just as I remembered. What was different was the sprawling gift shop and exhibition complex across the street. New to me was the costume exhibit, with three stories of jumpsuits, and capes. Sadly, also were the tombstones of Lisa Marie and her son Benjamin in the Meditation Garden.

Take in Martin Luther King Jr.’s Legacy

The National Civil Rights Museum is attached to the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. Out front of the motel I saw his Cadillac, and on the balcony of his room hung a wreath of remembrance. It’s a sobering place, with permanent exhibitions covering the Rosa Parks bus protest, and the “I Am a Man” sanitation workers strike that led to MLK’s death. The stories were a heart-wrenching look at the fight for social justice.

Eat like the Locals in Memphis

When in Memphis, make sure you eat like the Memphians.

Hive Bagel and Deli – fresh pastries, and NY-style bagels boiled in water mixed with their own honey.
Central BBQ – slow-smoked, dry-rubbed, and marinaded meats including pork, beef, and chicken.
Sunrise Memphis – Colorful breakfast/lunch spot with outstanding biscuits. A local favourite.
Lobbyist – Located in the historic Hotel Chisca, this upscale American bistro offers redefined sides such as okra with buttermilk crème fraiche.
Cocozza – American-Italian specializing in red sauce dishes. Check out the painting of Elvis and his favorite singer, Mario Lanza.
Itta Bena Restaurant – Hidden gem serving southern cuisine above B.B. King’s Blues Club. Try the shrimp and grits.

Where to Sip in Memphis

Beale Street – Pick one of the live entertainment bars or simply walk the neon-lit stretch and enjoy the blues, soul, and R&B pouring from each venue.

Old Dominick Distillery – Go for a tour, then sip a flight of bourbon, including the signature Toddy with citrus and spice.

And to Sleep in Memphis

Central Station Hotel – A converted 1914 rail hub with a musical bent. The Eight & Sand lounge features a wall of vinyl recordings and an in-house DJ.

How to Make the Most of Visiting Memphis, Tennessee