Two Nations: One Idyllic Vacation

Published October 11th, 2024

Photography by Jennifer Merrick unless otherwise noted.

Canada and the US share the world’s longest border at over 8,891 kilometres long. And on that border, just east of Kingston, ON, and Cape Vincent, NY, we also share a remarkable archipelago and scenery so wondrous that when Charles Dickens visited, he wrote that the beauty of the 1000 Islands “could hardly be imagined.” He continued to say that:

The number and constant succession of these islands, all green and richly wooded; their fluctuating sizes, some so large, that for half an hour together, one among them will appear as the opposite bank of the river, and some so small that they are mere dimples on its bosom…. all form a picture fraught with uncommon interest and pleasure.”

The picture Dickens painted with his words over 180 years ago holds just as true today. Yes, the watercrafts are different with motorboats and cruise ships recreating in the glittering blue waterway instead of steam and row boats. But the islands are still countless (although some claim there are exactly 1864 islands in the 80 km stretch of the St. Lawrence River) and varying in size (from Wolfe Island, the largest at 44 kms long, to Just Room Enough Island, which is a mere 310 square metres). Since each island is either entirely Canadian or American, the border zigzags erratically and boaters criss-cross in and out of the two nations as they navigate the channels between islands. This matters little unless you have a country-specific cellphone plan, or you come ashore. In this case, border crossers phone in their passport and boat information.

Those travelling by road, like our family, go through customs before traversing the1000 Islands International Bridge, a striking series of bridges that includes a suspension bridge that floats 45 meters over the river. Though we had explored this region on the Canadian side, it was the first time we had stayed and vacationed on the US side. We were delighted to discover unique attractions, distinct heritage and a Rockwellish atmosphere. There were moments we felt we had travelled back in time with white picket fences, a sense of community and family gatherings to eat ice cream and cannonball into the river from the town’s docks.

But a few things were exactly the same on either side of the border: the sunset spectacles that showcased an ever-changing palette of hues reflected on the water; the St. Lawrence River itself and the boaters, anglers and swimmers enjoying it; and, of course, the feeling of awe and wonder at the sheer beauty of the region

Here are some of the top activities to enjoy on the American side:

Get into the spirit of Wellesley Island

There’s just something special about this second largest island in the archipelago. A swami had an epiphany here, and still today followers pilgrimage here. A reverend established a Methodist settlement on the island at the end of the 19th century, and residents today go to great lengths to beautify their homes and properties.

We definitely sensed an enchanted energy here as we biked on a tour with Boomerang Bike & Kayak Rental and hiked at Wellsley State Park. A loop trail took us to panoramic vistas of the river and then through a thick forest, where we heard the squarks of blue jays and the drumming of woodpeckers. A white-tailed deer stared at us for minutes before darting into the woods. Magical.

Dine at Clayton’s fabulous restaurants

This quintessential river village has a culinary scene that goes way beyond what you might expect from a place with a population of 5000 people.

Every meal we had in Clayton was a treat and restaurants were hopping even on weekdays with boaters and holidaymakers enjoying a variety of Italian cuisine, seafood and fresh locally inspired dishes. Many establishments including DiPrinzio’s kitchen, Bella’s, Channelside Restaurant and Foxys had outdoor seating overlooking the river. Others like Wood Boat Brewery and Clipper Inn are local favourites where residents and visitors return to regularly.

Check in at the Harbor Hotel

This AAA Four Diamond property, also located in Clayton, is the ideal base for a 1000 Island getaway. It’s steps away from both a boardwalk that runs along the riverbank leading to the town’s historic train station as well as the shops and galleries in the center of town.

We especially enjoyed the Harbor Hotel’s Riverside Patio with its Adirondack chairs and fire pits that offered a relaxing oasis with an expansive view of the river.

Take a groovy spin on the river at the Antique Boat Museum

A museum with the word antique in it might sound boring, however Clayton’s Antique Boat Museum is anything but. Not only does it have an extensive collection of more than 320 pleasure boats ranging from the local St. Lawrence skiffs to a lavish 106-foot Gilded Age houseboat, but visitors have the opportunity to try out some of them. Take the oars of a skiff, a traditional flat-bottomed boat built especially for the region, and row the St. Lawrence River or let a captain do the cruising in an antique motorboat.

We felt like we were cruising in the boat equivalent of a Porsche convertible in our gleaming 1930s mahogany Hacker Craft. Captain Clay, one of the museum’s 150 volunteers, shared his passion for boating and the 1000 Islands as we zipped through the channels and passed points of interest like the Rock Island Lighthouse and multi-million dollar summer homes.

Cruise to Boldt Castle

Of all the stately homes and opulent mansions built by rich socialites, statesmen and industrialists here in the Gilded Age, nothing compares to the grand Boldt Castle. In 1900, George Boldt, the proprietor of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, began building the 120-room Rhineland castle complete with tunnels, gardens, towers and a drawbridge, for his wife Louise. Tragically, four years later, Louise died and the heartbroken Boldt immediately stopped all construction, never returning to Heart Island again.

Our 2 Nation Tour, which started in Alexandria Bay, allowed us to spend as much time as we wanted exploring the rooms and gardens of the castle with shuttles returning to the mainland regularly. It also narrated the historic and scenic attractions on both sides of the border.

And on the Canadian side:

Hover above the river

Boats, especially cruises, are the classic way to explore the 1000 Islands, but a helicopter tour by 1000 Islands Helicopter Tours provides an altogether different vantage point.

Though flying at 180km/hour, it almost felt as though we were still, hovering above the deep-blue Saint Lawrence River with rings of turquoise around the many green islands. The ten-minute tour flew by, but the thrill of the ride and the beauty of the views gave us a high that lasted for hours.

Explore the town of Gananoque

This pretty river town has top-notch theatre at the 1000 Island Playhouse, local breweries, restaurants, galleries and boutiques. It’s also the base for numerous outfitters and cruise lines.

We joined a guided kayaking excursion with 1000 Islands Kayaking that took us to McDonald Island, one of 20 that Parks Canada stewards with docks, camping sites, picnic tables and trails. Another stop was Half Moon Bay, an outdoor church, where congregations have been gathering by boat since 1887.

Bike the St. Lawrence Recreational Trail

Running along the 1000 Island Parkway, this scenic off-road route stretches from Gananoque to Butternut Bay, near Brockville.

It was an absolute pleasure to ride with views of the St. Lawrence, attractions en route and even wildlife sightings. On our ride, we encountered a fox, who sauntered very proudly with its catch in its mouth, on our ride.

Hiking at Landon Bay

This 225-acre property is also part of the 1000 Island National Park though it’s on the mainland.

The trails took us through all the features of the UNESCO-recognized Biosphere Reserve: old growth forest, ancient granite outcroppings and marshlands. The Lookout Trail led to a huge granite slab atop a hill looking over Landon Bay, the St. Lawrence River and a few of the region’s 1864 islands. The Avalanche Pass lived up to its name with boulders big and small strewn along it and a wooden platform that provided a view of an osprey nest. It was everything we could have wished for in a hike, including a wishing tree, circa 1850.

My wish was to come back to the 1000 Islands again.

Two Nations: One Idyllic Vacation

Here are some of the top activities to enjoy on the American side:

And on the Canadian side:

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