Drive to Your Art’s Content on Nova Scotia's Cabot Trail
Published February 19th, 2024
All photography by Jay Kana unless otherwise noted. Specifically the one here, which is courtesy of a friendly traveller I met along the way, who’s name I didn’t get.
Spanning nearly 300 km (185 miles,) Nova Scotia’s Cabot Trail is one of Canada’s most spectacular driving routes. As someone who’s also a professional automotive journalist and videographer and has driven over one million kilometres, it’s easily one of my top three driving routes in Canada.
More than that, there’s a strong creative and arts presence throughout that adds exclamation points to an already magical part of the world.
My experience was in in mid-August and I used the Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design’s Artisan Trail Map (2023 version - it changes each year) as framework for my route. While I didn’t have time to visit all 29 locations, I did see 14 over four days and that means I’ll happily have to return.
I was fortunate to connect with several artists along the trail and learn about their craft, their story and how the arts is such a strong driver in eastern Nova Scotia.
Here are four tips I learned on my journey that will help anyone on their first visit:
Do the route counter clockwise so you’re on the shore side of the island
If you see a bathroom, use it.
If you see a gas station, fill up.
If you see food, buy it.
(The last three are courtesy of Penny Steele, owner of Cabotto Chocolate Shop & Art Gallery.)
Join me as we adventure and explore the colourful arts scene in Cape Breton along and just off of the Cabot Trail.
START THE CAR
If you’re from outside of Nova Scotia, my recommendation is to fly into Halifax and get your car, borrowed or rented. Set your navigation for the Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design (The Centre) in Sydney, approximately 4.5 hours east. The Centre is the hub for all things art in Cape Breton and it’s a smart place to start. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable, you can pick up a physical copy of the Artisan Trail Map and explore works of over 100 local artists.
Before you set out for The Cabot Trail, stroll through Sydney and check out the cool “Sydney Letters,” the worlds largest fiddle, the Cape Breton Miners’ Museum and grab a bite at one of the many restaurants by the waterfront.
FIRST GEAR
You’ll backtrack a bit but I promise it’s worth it to take the hour-long drive to the Village of Baddeck.
Breeze into the Flying Kite Artisan Shop where you’ll find an assortment of clothing, books, prints, knick knacks, art pieces, sculptures and more. It’s all about local love here and as proud owner Courtney Smith says, the store is full of “thoughtfully curated artisan goods made in Atlantic Canada.”
Ring into the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site and pick up some cool historical information and when you get hungry, Tom’s Pizza lives up to the hype and rave reviews.
If you’re spending the night, relax at The Inverary Resort and catch some live music (on select dates) at the on-site restaurant and bar.
SECOND GEAR
As you take the 30 minute drive toward Meadowbrook Studio, you’ll reach a starting point for the Cabot Trail proper in St. Anns, where you’re welcomed by a big sign that you should take a selfie with.
If you enjoy driving, the bends and curves on the early portion are delightful! Hang a left onto Meadow Road in Goose Bay and you’ll reach Jane Alderdice’s Meadowbrook Studio. She’s been weaving for over 30 years and in an amazing act of kindness, she taught me how to weave. I got the hang of it, albeit slowly.
She makes one-of-a-kind scarves, bags, throws, tea towels, and more, along with large and small-scale landscape, nature and still life watercolour paintings. She also gives back by teaching.
Get back on the Cabot Trail and 10 minutes away is the impressive Iron Art and Madame Mouton roadside attraction. While my timing to meet them was off, there are terrific iron sculptures of various styles and sizes that you should stop and check out.
Piper Pewter is another short 10-minute jaunt and once there, you’ll see dozens upon dozens of lead-free pewter jewels, trinkets and gifts cast and finished by hand. Owner Donna Montgomery Frizzell says “We have a reputation here in the St.Anns area for being a very artistic community. It employs people in the local community and it’s a nice part of the Cabot Trail to be able to visit the local artisans.”
Cabotto Chocolate Shop and Art Gallery is a minute away and your sweet tooth (teeth?) will thank you! Chocolate is made on-site in a variety of styles, types and flavours. There’s also art on-site, courtesy of the Colouratura Art Gallery featuring Cape Breton Artists. The former Presbyterian church building has been home to the art gallery since 2010 and 10 years ago, owner Penny Steele added chocolate making into the mix. “A gallery such as this gives an opportunity for a lot of artists to show their work” she proudly says.
THIRD GEAR
This place is so nice, I went there twice! The Glass Artisans Studio & Gallery is a five minute drive from Cabotto’s and I not only received a one-on-one lesson from Master Glass Blower, Mervi Haapakoski, I also created my unique, one-of-one slightly lopsided, imperfectly perfect paper weight! She was so patient, helpful, knowledgeable and if you get the chance, experience a lesson from her.
Next door to her workspace is the main shop, with hundreds of hand-blown glass art using cool techniques. Fun fact; Mervi and I both attended the same post-secondary school!
One of the most eye-catching attractions on my travels belongs to Sew Inclined. It’s funky, it’s fun, it’s got a colourful pair of cars out front so you can’t miss it. Owner Barbara Longva has been hand-making hats and clothing for over 30 years and Sir Elton John has worn one of her creations! Her creativity is as exciting as her location.
After running through two gears, Keltic Lodge at the Highlands is a wonderful place to recharge after you have a splendid, filling meal at the nearby Coastal Restaurant and Pub in Ingonish.
(Above photos via Keltic Lodge.)
FOURTH GEAR
Since you’re in Ingonish, a must-visit is Salty Rose’s & The Periwinkle Café, co-owned by Sarabeth Drover. The art side features a plethora of locally made arts and crafts, while the food side blends lobster rolls, wine, coffee, healthy offerings and more. Grab a seat on the patio if you can! Drover says “we are a locally sourced café, a locally sourced arts and craft shop with an in-house jewelry studio with quaint seaside accommodations…we want to create an experience.”
Next door is the unmistakable Groovy Goat Farm & Soap Company and yes, there are goats on-site that you can admire around back. They specialize in creating natural and lavish soaps and lotions using, yep, you guessed it; fresh goat milk from the resident goats on their farm. There are plenty of options, scents and did I mention there are live, cute goats!
A majestic 30-ish minute drive north from our friends the goats brings you to Cape North, home of Arts North in the, unsurprisingly, northern most section of the Cabot Trail. This gallery features entirely Cape Breton artists, showcases over 20 different artists across various mediums and ownerJoanne and her son, Jacob, create high-fired stoneware pottery reflective of their environment.
Create a few hours to explore and adventure at Cape Breton Highlands National Park, whether it’s hiking, sightseeing, or various lookout/look-off points.
Rest your head at the charming Cornerstone Motel, at the northwest entrance to the park, complete with its colourful doors. Have dinner at either the Doryman or Le Gabrielle and be sure to grab breakfast at the Aucoin bakery the next morning.
FIFTH GEAR
A few minutes from The Cornerstone Motel is Cheticamp, home to the artistic gathering spot known as Freya & Thor Gallery & Cafe. It features creative works from Cape Breton and Maritimes artists across rug hooking, ceramics, jewellery, wood working and more. They serve a delicious cup of coffee and my time there was graced with a folky jam session with a collection of local musicians. Yep, I grabbed a seat and had a second cup, fully appreciating the music.
Lola, L-O-L-A, Lola! It’s also the owner’s name of this cheeky joint called Proud To Be Hookers, where you’ll find several locally hooked rugs, rug hooking kits and you just might see Lola and or her team working on the hooking via a traditional process.
SIXTH GEAR
Keep enjoying this world-class drive along the Cabot Trail for 20-ish minutes until you reach Larch Wood and their stunning cutting boards. For over 20 years, these handcrafted cutting boards are famous across the globe.
Since you’re in the area, take the 20 minute drive to Two Macs Gift & Gallery Shop to check out hand crafted felted wool pieces, made from Nova Scotia sheep’s wool.
CHANGE LANES
Take a slight detour off the Cabot Trail and onto the Ceilidh Trail for around 30 minutes, which brings you to Inverness, home of The Opulent Alpaca. Owners Isabel and Barry Eisenhauer craft alpaca fibres from their ethically-raised alpacas. To produce beautiful, quality alpaca yarns in several weights and blends. They’ve also got knitting and felting kits.
While you’re on the Ceilidh Trail, meander along and explore the Celtic music Interpretive Centre in Judique, swing by the Red Shoe Pub, owned by the famous Rankin sisters, and pop by Galloping Cows Fine Foods for hand-crafted preserves. Or explore one of the beaches on the shores along the Gulf of the St.Lawrence.
Before heading home, spend one more night here at the Glenora Inn & Distillery, take a guided tour of this historic whiskey distillery and have a wonderful meal at the Washback Pub, which sometimes features live music.
When you go, follow my lead or paint your own path. Even with minimal stops, the Cabot Trail is heavenly whether you’re a driver or passenger. The panoramic views, charm of each section and each creative component is world-class. All you need to do is show up with a blank canvas.