Making New Friends & Soul Food in New Orleans

Published October 21st, 2024

Photography by Jay Kana & Charlie Whinham

I’ve spent nearly 30 years in sales, 16 as an entrepreneur and around 70% of my travels have been solo; I’m fully comfortable in speaking with and meeting new people.
I was the oldest child for eight years, which might have contributed to that.

In late May, I was humbled and flattered to receive an invitation to join a media group to experience Louisiana, including New Orleans. As a musician, it’s one of the destinations that’s been on my must-visit list.
Along with four other talented travel journalists (Jennifer Bain, Nancy Bordeleau, Eddie Chau and Vivian Vassos) and two extraordinary hosts (Joanne Scalamogna and Charlie Whinham,) we were excited for the six-day adventure.

For reference, Eddie and I travelled together to Philadelphia in 2019 and Niagara Falls in 2021.
Jennifer had started writing for Modern Traveller in early 2024 and while we’d met for lunch prior her becoming a modern traveller, we were strong acquaintances in May. Now she’s a regular contributor!
Joanne and I had met at travel events over the past few years and I didn’t know Vivian or Nancy, with our first “hellos!” happening while waiting for our flight from YYZ.

Our early dinner at Desire Oyster Bar

We touched down mid-afternoon and after a 45-ish minute shuttle from the New Orleans airport, we arrived at the Royal Sonesta New Orleans hotel. There was small talk on the ride there and some of us knew others but it was the first time all of us travelled together. 

Food being a key ingredient in travel and its ability to bring strangers together, our first group activity was an early dinner at Desire Oyster Bar, where I’ve had some of the best chicken wings and Eddie ambitiously ordered and ate a full-size Po’ Boy Sandwich. The rest of the group ordered a variety of local favourites and that initial meal  eased ourselves into each other's company.

Our first activity was a visit to the Mardi Gras School of Cooking in the famous French Quarter for, well, a cooking class, specifically the “Roux Class,” which consisted of us creating traditional Chicken and Andouille Sausage Gumbo, Shrimp Etouffee and Bananas Foster.
After the 15 minute walk from the hotel, we shuffled through the doors and into the main room, donned our aprons and found our places around the elongated  cooking area.
Jennifer to my left, who also doubled as my photographer, Nancy to my right and the others at various places around the cooking area, we all had eye contact and space for conversation with each other.
Greeted by one of my favourite people on this trip, Chef Mark Falgoust was tailor made to lead our group. He grew up on the banks of the Mississippi River and has been a Chef for over 20 years. More importantly, he was encouraging, friendly, welcoming, engaging and could (should!) give lectures on how to teach.  His warm, humours and easy going personality helped bring our group together as we were walked through the steps of creating authentic, traditional New Orleans dishes.

I’m a decent-ish cook but more importantly, I’m a pro at being able to follow instructions.
And follow I did, from learning how to prepare shrimp, to creating the base for the gumbo and thankfully, not burning anything. 

As the three-hour class progressed, there were laughs aplenty, conversations flowed smoothly all around, we learned more and more about one another and of course, Mark was there to keep us on task in the kindest of ways. 

Jennifer was on the receiving end of “can you take a short video and some pictures please?” at least a dozen times, to which she smiled and obliged.
Nancy, who’s an impressive cook and chef herself, and I got along quickly and my limited French vocabulary fuelled the laugher.
Eddie, Vivian, Joanne and Charlie also boarded the Fast-Friends train and as we got deeper into the class, the more prevalent our rising friendship became. 
Charlie, with his bubbly and enchanting personality paired perfectly with Joanne, who is one of the kindest people I’ve met. She’s authentic, funny and simply a joy to be with.
Eddie’s dry humour, stirred in with my penchant for puns, might land us at an open-mic night at a comedy club. Ok, it won’t but it could. Maybe.
Vivian kindly laughed at my awful aforementioned puns and dad jokes, and was, like the rest of the group, oh-so easy to get along with. 

Let’s pause for a few fun food facts:

The “holy trinity” of New Orleans food are onions, bell peppers and celery.
Gumbo is Louisiana’s official state dish.
A roux is equal parts flour and fat/oil and is used as a thickening agent.
Banana’s Foster was created in 1951 after a restaurant owner challenged his chef to create a banana-based dessert.
When gumbo is simmering, skimming the fat is crucial.

Our collective sense of accomplishment was truly felt at the table, where enjoyed a family-style setting to eat the meal made over laughter and new friendships, with the right amount of spice and flavouring.
I went back for seconds. And thirds. And two servings of dessert, being Banana’s Foster.

The conversations amongst all of us, Chef Mark included, were kept in motion all night, with elements of personal stories sprinkled in.
Simply put, it helped familiarize us, each with varying personalities, and set the warm tone for an enjoyable six days together.
It was my first true cooking class and if I do another, it’ll be challenging to top this one.

Would we have created a similar base layer of friendship doing a different activity? Maybe.
Am I happy that soul food created new friends over the course of three hours preparing traditional New Orleans dishes? Absolutely. 

Over the balance of the trip, our camaraderie strengthened as we cycled through an enticing itinerary through Louisiana, full of food, fun, fantastic experiences and friendship. This was one of the most memorable group travel experiences I’ve had in over a decade. Travelling with the right people makes a monumental difference between a good trip and exceptional one, this one easily being the latter.

From a music tour, an alligator swamp tour, walking tours and soaking in authentic live New Orleans jazz and more, each experience was splendid with, again, the foundations created and served on Wilkinson Street in Crescent City.