Discover Halifax, Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore & Peggy’s Cove via Road Trip
Published September 21st, 2024
Photography by Jay Kana unless otherwise noted.
When most people think of Halifax, Nova Scotia, downtown Halifax is top of mind. Argyle Street, the many museums, the Citadel Historic National Park are some highlights but what most may not know is that Halifax consists of nine different regions housing 201 unique communities.
I spent a wondrous week road tripping to and through Peggy’s Cove Coastal Region and the Eastern Shore, both on the southern side of the province, to discover Halifax in a new light with new experiences and loading up on new memories and adventures.
Dubbed “Canada’s Ocean Playground,” these two magical parts of Halifax, Nova Scotia are waiting for you.
Here’s your itinerary and guide for these two delightful regions of Halifax.
PEGGY’S COVE COASTAL REGION
Peggy’s Cove Glass
You’re greeted by a huge hand-carved wooden lobster blowing glass as you pull in and if you visit between 10:00 am and 5:00 pm Wednesday through Sunday, you’re treated to glass blowing demos on-site.
Every delightful item you’ll see on display is both made on-site and available for purchase, with their tumblers and buoys being popular pieces.
Owned by Kelly Lowe, they create custom pieces, awards, and really, nearly anything you can think of via glass blowing.
Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse
I’ve experienced Peggy’s Cove (Point) Lighthouse several times in my life and always during the day. This was my first sunset experience and if you can time it right, I throughly recommend you do so.
Pro tip; the lighthouse lights up red at dusk, enhancing the aura of this majestic Canadian icon.
Enjoy the new boardwalk and viewing platform and also safely and carefully roam the area for unique views. There are a few Muskoka (Adirondack) chairs for you to sit and soak in the views. Or you can find your place on one of the massive rocks on the shore, gaze into the Atlantic Ocean as its waves fiercely yet beautifully meet the rocks.
Dress in layers as the wind and nighttime chill can be unassumingly strong.
Stand-Up Paddle Boarding at Shining Waters Marina
Photography here by Tim L’Esperance except the picture of him because, well, you know.
In addition to being on of Nova Scotia’s premiere marina’s and boatyards, stand-up paddle board rentals are part of the mix.
Tim L’Esperance’s official title is Yard & Operations Manager but he’s also a stellar stand-up paddle boarder; here’s why that’s important.
The last time I was on one was in central Florida in 2016; my physical shape has slightly expanded in eight years. Tim was a patient and knowledgeable teacher and splashed small yet strong tips on how to improve my technique and effectiveness on the water.
I’m proud to say I kept my balance the entire two hours on the water, with exactly zero moments of nervousness and 100% confidence, thanks to Tim’s excellent instruction.
While the fun of being on the water is the main attraction, they take safety very seriously as well and have high-end paddle boards and newer personal floatation devices for guests.
If it’s a windy day, there’s the shelter of coves close by that offer a calmer experience. If you’re more experienced, get on out there and enjoy the open water.
For a guy who’s an avid kayaker, stand-up paddle boarding in the Atlantic Ocean is pretty not that bad. 10/10 would do again.
E-Biking the St. Margarets Bay Rails to Trails with Scotia Cycle
This 33 kilometre multi-use recreational trail is a favourite with cyclists as it offers gorgeous views built on the original railway that served the area.
Stop in at Scotia Cycle and see the owner, Tom, for your bike/e-bike rentals. He’s friendly and knowledgeable about the area and has a terrific selection of modern bicycles and helmets.
There are plenty of places to stop along the way if you so choose. A popular route is to start from Scotia Cycle in Hubbards and stop in at the Bike and Bean Cafe for a snack and or lunch, with the round trip being realistically done in three hours including the cafe stop. You’ll know where the cafe is as there’s a rail car positioned directly behind the cafe.
The trail goes through nine communities and is made of crushed stone, so user-friendless is high but always be careful.
I’m an advocate for e-bikes as the battery boost reduces the barrier to entry for novice cyclists.
It proves a different perspective of the area, the views are wonderful and it’s (for now) a hidden slice of outdoor goodness.
Stay at Anchorage House & Cottages
With all these activities, you’ll need somewhere to recharge and the Anchorage House & Cottages is just the place to do it. Overlooking picturesque Hubbards Cove and along the famous South Shore Lighthouse Route, choose from suites, cottages or a room in the Anchorage house itself.
I stayed in the Fox Point cottage, a two-bedroom set up with a large living room, ideal for couples, friends, families or even solo modern travellers, such as myself.
Comfortable beds and a welcoming environment make this a must-experience lodging.
Plus, there’s a pool, a dock with Muskoka (Adirondack) Chairs and oh-so friendly staff and it’s central to the aforementioned.
How close is the Anchorage House from local attractions, you ask?
31 km: Peggy’s Cove Glass
53 km: Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse
27 km: Shining Waters Marina
1 km: Scotia Cycle
Where to Eat in Halifax, Nova Scotia’s Peggy’s Cove Coastal Region
Finer Diner
Between Peggy’s Cove Glass and the Lighthouse, Finer Diner has been serving up comfort food and fresh seafood since 2007. Enjoy a view of Boutiliers Cove from the patio as you dine, or enjoy the cozy indoor dining room.
37.5 km from Anchorage House
The Rustic Crust
Mouthwatering wood fired pizza, a beer garden, picnic table seats, friendly staff and house made desserts made this one of my instant favourites. The vibe is relaxed, the pizza and beer menu is simple with enough variety to be inviting opposed to overwhelming. There’s also indoor seating if you choose.
Interestingly, they started off as wood-fired pizza truck!
22 km from Anchorage House
2025 FORD MUSTANG GT CONVERTIBLE
Fully redesigned, the iconic Ford Mustang was my chariot for my week in Halifax and in convertible form, was such a wonderful way along Nova Scotia’s winding roads.
The top down, ocean breeze flowing through the air, the Noble Rogues cranked up and a strong 5.0 L V8 made for a memorable road trip.
This iteration produces 480 horsepower and 415 lb-ft. of torque through either a six-speed manual or 10-speed automatic and features heated and cooled seats, a premium audio system, comfortable leather seats, configurable digital instrument cluster, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, and plenty of standard safety features.
Given its low stance, handling around twists and turns are done with ease and enjoyment. There’s just something about driving with the top down in summer that’s magical, especially on a Nova Scotia road trip.
EASTERN SHORE REGION
Taylor Head Provincial Park
Being outdoors in this special part of Canada is a treat, especially at Taylor Head Provincial Park. Jutting six and a half kilometres into the Atlantic Ocean, there’s a handful of hiking trails to enjoy. The one I did was the Spry Bay Trail, a four kilometre loop that takes roughly two hours. There’s varying terrain, so bring appropriate footwear as you’ll experience a coastal forest, wave-aged boulder shores, marshes, and an inland barren. Soak in the vibrant views of Spry Bay and all its surrounding beauty.
Remember your snacks and water!
Clam Digging with Darcy Baker
Anchored by fourth generation clam digger and an astoundingly amazing person, Darcy Baker, this experience starts with meeting at Memory Lane Heritage Village. You’ll get the basics on safety, procedures and what to expect.
Before you take the 10-minute drive to the clam flats, there’ll be chat about footwear.
Anything with a closed toe will be a bad choice. Flip flops or hiking sandals are also a bad choice. Water shoes? Yep - same thing. Ok, ok, maybe “bad choice” was harsh; they’re not the best choices. Why? Because you’ll be sauntering through thick mud that needs care to properly navigate through. You’re also going through a 50-70 foot long stream that came up to my knees.
Carelessly, I said “nah, these hiking sandals will be great!” Yeah…they were great until the stickiness of the mud separated my foot from it on one of my first steps.
All of that is to say this; go barefoot. You’ll have stronger balance, it’s just mud between your toes and you won’t have to wash any footwear afterward. Plus, Darcy has a huge tub of water and towels for you fully clean your feet when the digging is done.
Now then, onto the adventure!
After your’ve trudged through the mud, crossed a short and 1.5 foot-ish deep stream and walked across packed mud, the 10 minutes worth brings you to where you’ll get to work.
Darcy is patient, detailed, has an eagle-eye for details and most of all, friendly. That contributes to you having a fun and educational adventure as you dig for clams. From how to angle the clam fork, how to find the age of a clam, how to measure them and the history of the area and his history in the industry.
I stayed out for 90-ish minutes, caught my handful of clams and then we went back to Memory Lane for the final part of the experience.
And that would be lunch, consisting of….all you can eat steamed clams! But wait, there’s more!
A sandwich, soup, baked beans, beverages and the Cookhouse’s trademark gingerbread and rhubarb sauce also come with the meal.
Definitely a must-do experience; I promise you’ll dig it!
Memory Lane Heritage Village
Since you’re already here for lunch, the Clam Digging tour includes admission here in this time machine that moves you to what life was like here in the 1940’s. This award-winning history-in-real-time destination features a schoolhouse, church, wood and metal workshop, boat shop, automotive garage and much more. Plus, there are kittens! Extra cute kittens, for that matter!
Enjoy a self-guided tour and check out all the attention to detail on the shelves of the general store.
Kayaking with Coastal Adventures
I’m an avid kayaker and after kayaking in British Columbia this summer, kayaking all five Great Lakes in one day, of course I had to kayak in the Atlantic Ocean. Before I dive in figuratively to this adventure, know that Gayle and Scott welcome beginners and no prior experience is needed; they’ll take such good care of you.
Led by the experienced, friendly and simply wonderful Gayle Wilson and Scott Cunningham, our group did the half day tour where we were on the water for the better part of three hours.
We made a stop on a beautiful beach to stretch our legs and nibble on some snacks at the three-quarter-ish point in our journey.
Our leaders made sure all questions were answered, shared the history of the area with us as we paddled and there were smiles for miles from everyone.
Gayle and Scott have been doing this for over 30 years and after the dozens of kayak tours I’ve done, this is one of the best ones.
Stay at Blue Forest Shores
This magical slice of serenity is described by owner Philip Yaro Darmos as a “wellness and education nature retreat centre.” It’s a stunning property that features the forest, ocean and five private islands.
Their primary lodging is The Boathouse, which is but a few feet from the shores of the Atlantic Ocean in a two-floor wood cabin. Upstairs are two beds and windows on three sides and a deck where you can gaze upon the water. Downstairs is the wood stove, a couch, table/chairs and open the rear door to enjoy the large patio with picnic table and Muskoka/Adirondack chairs.
Of my two nights there, the first was filled with heavy rain, which made for a moody and cozy night with the windows open to lull me to sleep. The second night was warm and hazy, the perfect summer night.
There are kayaks and canoes for rent beside the cabin, two hiking trails and I would’ve stayed a whole week if I could’ve.
There’s a top-notch sauna about a minutes walk from the cabin overlooking the ocean, an outdoor shower steps away from there and an outhouse across the path; all very close to each other.
This is much more than the typical “cabin in the woods” kinda place. Unplug from the world, relax, immerse yourself in the outdoors and simply enjoy your surroundings in all their peacefulness.
Distance from Blue Forest Shores to the aforementioned attractions:
53 km: Taylor Head Provincial Park
11km: Clam Digging & Memory Lane Heritage Park
39 km: Coastal Adventure Kayaking
Where to Eat in Halifax, Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore Region
Old No. 7 Restaurant & Sports Bar
The Old No. 7 Restaurant & Sports Bar in Head of Jeddore features a great menu, good wings, plenty of seating and best of all, excellent customer service. It’s one of the few restaurants in the immediate area and has the latest food selection. It’s at the end of a strip mall but don’t let that deter you from dining there; it’s a good place with great food.
5 km from Blue Forest Shores
Noor’s Mediterranean Kitchen
In the quaint area of Musquodoboit Harbour is where you’ll find Noor’s, a small yet mighty dining destination loved by locals. Famous for their pizza’s and authentic Mediterranean options, I devoured a delicious Chicken Shawarma Plate and washed it down with a ginger ale in their small-ish dining area. The handful of locals that came in had take-out orders and the young gentleman behind the counter was brimming with friendliness. Affordable prices and a central location, plus, of course, the stellar food, make this a mandatory stop along your journey.
10 km from Blue Forest Shores
I’ll skip my usually long closing paragraph and end with this instead; there’s much more to Halifax, Nova Scotia than city life. Peggy’s Cove Coastal Region and the Eastern Shore are excitedly waving hello and inviting you to discover Halifax in a new light full of unplucked gems.
discoverhalifaxns.com