Drinking the Packers’ Kool-Aid and Eating the Cheese Curds

Published September 7th, 2024

Photography by Jennifer Merrick unless otherwise noted.

I’ve never been a football fan. Honestly, I don’t even understand the rules, and the only time I watch the Super Bowl is during the half-time show. And yet at the end of my visit to Green Bay, a small city located on the shores of Lake Michigan in the state of Wisconsin, I found myself at the Packers Pro Shop, scooping up merch, including a green and gold tee that I’m wearing now. I would have bought a cheesehead, too, except for the fact it wouldn’t have fit in my carry-on. If you’re not familiar with a cheesehead, it’s a large, bright orange, triangular-shaped foam wedge, designed to resemble cheese, which Green Bay Packers fans wear during the game. It’s also the nickname for the fans themselves.

So am I cheesehead then? Mmm… well, the thought did cross my mind that I could wear the cheesehead on the plane in order to bring it home. How had this fandom taken hold? It all started innocently enough with a tour of the legendary Lambeau Field. Legendary? I was skeptical of the superlative, but like most people, I love a good underdog story, and the Packers have it.

At the beginning of the 20th century, most American football teams were represented and supported by their small towns. As time went on, all were bought by private owners and corporations. Except the Packers. They are owned by the fans themselves (more than 500,000 shareholders) and are the only non-profit, community-owned major league professional sports team in the US. Incredibly, it’s one of the most valuable and successful sports franchises in the world with a net worth of over $3 billion and more championships than any other NFL team. And the most passionate fans.

There were plenty of them in the stadium with us, also on tours, despite the fact football season was over. 

“During a home game, about 3,500 people do tours,” said our guide, Jacob Servais.

If Lambeau Field is the temple, Vincent Lombardi is the god, and we gawked at the three-floor, 14.5-ton trophy statue dedicated to him and his achievements, which include five NFL championships.

Jake guided us through the hallways and rooms that were lined with photos and paintings of the Packers104-year history until we reached the pinnacle of the stadium tour -- The Tunnel.  

“People get goosebumps,” said Jake, and he added that some participants on the tour have started crying and breaking down at this spot.  Others have proposed marriage.

“Does anyone want to press the button?”  he asked. 

A volunteer eagerly stepped up and hit it. A soundtrack playing game day music and cheering blared as the door lifted to reveal the green grass and bleachers of Lambeau Field itself. 

“You’re about to follow in the same footsteps of the greats,” Jake said as he pointed out a slab of concrete taken from the original stadium.

I had no goosebumps when I walked onto the field and looked up at the bleachers, which hold over 80,000 fans at each home game. But a seed of admiration and appreciation for the Packers was planted. It grew as my visit continued in the fertile soil of Green Bay, where even the streets are named after the team’s players and coaches.

The community and the team have a symbiotic relationship in which both are dependent on each other to thrive. Titletown, a 45-acre development owned by the Packers, is a shiny example of this interconnection. Just west of Lambeau Field, this community hub has a large outdoor park (with a football field, of course), playground, a winter skating rink and tubing hill, and concert and event spaces. In summer, it hosts a night market every Thursday evening with over 70 vendors and food trucks. 

Photos by Julie Gile

“95 percent of the events are free,” said our guide, Hannah, as we perused the stalls and watched people of all ages enjoying the festive atmosphere. “It’s the team’s way of giving back to the fans.”

 And the fans give back with their zeal and loyalty, more so than ever with the upcoming draft. The fact that I started talking about this annual recruitment event myself shows just how infected I became by Packers fever. 

“It’s a huge deal,” I enthused to my partner when I returned home. “Over 250,000 people are expected to attend. That’s like two and half times the population of the city! Maybe we should check it out?” I suggested.

His mouth dropped, and he looked at me like I had been abducted by aliens. 

 “Who are you? And what happened to you in Green Bay?” he asked incredulously.

I’m still trying to figure it out. 

Certainly, the passion was contagious, but the city itself also contributed to my enthusiasm with its waterways, lively restaurant scene, and proximity to nature and pretty lakeside towns.  

Here are just a few activities to enjoy (after you’ve toured Lambeau Field, of course).

Sail the Bay: Book a sailing excursion or rent a watercraft to get out on the water that Green Bay is named after. The sheltered bay is warmer than you’d expect Lake Michigan to be, and it’s a breezy way to take in the views of the shoreline, including its old-fashioned amusement park. Green Bay Sail & Paddle, a nonprofit organization dedicated to providing learning opportunities for everyone, has intro classes for both sailing and kayaking.

Photo Greater Green Bay

Float the Fox River: The Fox River is an important tributary of Lake Michigan and key part of of Green Bay’s heritage. Thanks to restoration efforts, wildlife has flourished in recent years and sightings include great blue herons, cormorants, kingfishers and pelicans. The latter, with their nine-foot wingspan and humungous orange bills, are a thrill to watch as they fish for their dinner.  

Hike the trails at Osprey Point: This 100-acre conservancy is home to over 60-plus species of birds, including the osprey it’s named after. Hike on their well-maintained trails, check out its butterfly and sensory gardens or perhaps even try fishing in one of their stocked ponds. 

Explore the lakeside town of Algoma: Located 30 miles east of Green Bay on the shores of Lake Michigan, this small town has nature, watersports, boutique shops, local eateries and even a winery. Family-owned and operated, von Stiehl Winery is Wisconsin’s oldest licensed winery, and offers tasting and sipping of its award-winning wines in their taproom or on tours. 

Check in at the Legacy Hotel: This recently opened hotel not only has tastefully decorated and comfortable suites, but also a choice of entertainment options. Its elegant Lobby Bar hosts live jazz in the evenings, and the Cardinal Crest, its rooftop bar and terrace, is a stylish spot for a nightcap with a view.

Sample the brews: The craft beer scene in Green Bay is thriving with over three dozen local breweries all sporting their own signature style and character. Try Hinterland Brewery for its extensive beer menu along with contemporary American cuisine and lively atmosphere right in the heart of Titletown. Cocoon Brewery offers a bright funky design, a four-acre ‘backyard’ with cocoon structures to hang out in and its popular wood-oven pizzas. And at Stillmank Brewing, you’ll find innovative unpasteurized fermentation methods and refreshing seltzers served in a friendly, homey atmosphere.

Try the cheese curds: These squeaky chunks are an institution in Wisconsin, which is one of the biggest cheese producers in the world. Snack on the curds straight out of the bag or savor them battered and fried. Each restaurant we visited had their own version of the specialty, and I soon became addicted.  Apparently, cheese curds are also sold in huge quantities at Packers home games-- more than 2000 pounds of the stuff according to one source.

Come to think of it, could it have been something in the curds that turned me into a cheesehead? 

Jennifer Merrick

A teenage journey to the Arctic Circle sparked Jenn’s life-long passion for travel. In her twenties, she travelled abroad, teaching English in the UK, Hungary, Ukraine, Egypt and Singapore. She returned to Canada, settling in Toronto, where she began teaching new immigrants. Wanting to share her travel discoveries, she embarked on a second career as a freelance travel writer and her stories have been published in 30+ newspapers, magazines and websites.

Feet still itchy, she continues to travel and write about her adventures along the way. Join Jenn in this column as she hits the road.

Connect with her on Instagram @jennifermerrick3